The Problem with High Glycerin
Glycerin is a classic skincare workhorse: it draws water into the skin reliably and cost-effectively. But most formulas use it at 8–10% — and at those levels, texture suffers. The result is a gel that feels heavy, absorbs slowly, and leaves an uncomfortable tackiness under makeup.
Today's consumers won't compromise. They want hydration that disappears into the skin instantly, not a film that sits on top. The solution isn't to abandon glycerin — it's to use it smarter.
Three Humectants. One Precise System.
Rather than relying on a single ingredient at high concentration, this formula concept distributes the hydration workload across three actives, each with a distinct role:
Ectoin® natural — 1.0–2.0% | Hero Active
Ectoin® natural operates at the molecular level, forming a protective hydration shell around skin cells and membrane structures. It strengthens the skin barrier, reduces environmental stress responses and provides a layer of protection that neither Hyaluronic Acid nor glycerin can replicate. It is the reason this formula does more than moisturise.
Hyaluronic Acid (Dual-Weight) — 0.05–0.1% | Plumping Layer
High Molecular Weight Sodium Hyaluronate creates an instant surface plumping effect by forming a moisture retaining film on the skin. Low Molecular Weight Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid penetrates deeper into the epidermis, delivering lasting hydration where surface humectants cannot reach. Together, they provide both immediate and sustained results.
Glycerin (Optimised) — 3.0–5.0% | Moisture Base
Reduced from the conventional 8 to 10 percent, glycerin at this level still functions as an effective moisture reservoir. It locks in water and supports skin comfort without contributing to the heaviness or sticky feel that higher concentrations can produce.
Formula Starting Point
Water Aqua: q.s. to 100 percent
Function: Base and main solvent
Glycerin: 3.0 to 5.0 percent
Function: Optimised moisture reservoir
Ectoin® natural: 1.0 to 2.0 percent
Function: Key active and barrier protection
Sodium Hyaluronate HMW: 0.05 percent
Function: Surface hydration and plumping
Hydrolyzed HA LMW: 0.05 percent
Function: Deep penetration and lasting moisture
Sodium Carbomer or Xanthan Gum: 0.2 to 0.5 percent
Function: Gelling agent and texture
Hydroxyacetophenone plus Pentylene Glycol: 1 percent plus 2 percent
Function: Preservative system
Lactic Acid: q.s.
Function: Optional pH adjustment to 5.0 to 6.0
How to Formulate: Five Steps
Step 1 — Wet HA and gelling agent first
Disperse Sodium Hyaluronate and Sodium Carbomer into the Glycerin and Pentylene Glycol phase before adding water. This pre-wetting step prevents powder clumping and ensures a smooth, lump-free gel.
Step 2 — Add water and stir
Pour in the water phase and stir continuously for approximately 10 minutes until the gel becomes clear and uniform.
Step 3 — Add Ectoin® natural
Stir Ectoin® natural directly into the formed gel. No heating or special equipment is required — it dissolves readily at room temperature.
Step 4 — Incorporate the preservative system
Stir in Hydroxyacetophenone and Pentylene Glycol until fully integrated.
Step 5 — Adjust pH if needed
Use Lactic Acid to bring the finished formula to pH 5.0–6.0. This range is optimal for all actives in this system. The final gel should be clear, lightweight, and non-sticky.
Claims You Can Make
Formulating with Ectoin® natural at 1.0 to 2.0 percent gives brands access to a robust body of clinical evidence.
Long lasting hydration: Up to 200 percent more skin hydration versus placebo.
Moisture that lasts: Hydration remains stable for 7 days after stopping use.
Fast barrier repair: Skin barrier is strengthened within 4 hours.
Reduced redness and irritation: 38 percent less skin redness in 7 days.
Visibly smoother skin: Scaling is reduced by 76 percent, roughness by 52 percent and wrinkles by 23 percent.
Anti pollution protection: Pollution induced skin damage is reduced by 48 percent.
Full claim overview available — request the Scientific Brochure 2026 at cosmetics@bitop.de
Why Ectoin® natural Is Different
Ectoin® natural is not simply another humectant. It acts at the molecular level to stabilise cell membranes under environmental stress, including UV exposure, pollution, temperature extremes and dryness. At the same time, it supports barrier function and complements the work of Hyaluronic Acid and glycerin in areas they cannot reach alone.
Produced via an all natural biotech process since 1993, bitop is the original Ectoin® natural manufacturer, with over 30 years of clinical data supporting its efficacy and safety across skin types and applications.
Ready to Reformulate?
Contact our formulation team for samples, Technical Data Sheets (TDS), and expert support:
Ectoin® natural is Vegan · COSMOS-certified · Allergen-free · Made in Germany
